In early July, while I was living in Lisbon for two months, Azzurra flew in from Milan so we could spend the weekend in Baleal (ball-eh-all), just north of Peniche (pin-eesh), and just south of Nazaré, infamous for its gigantic waves. We were rather giddy to kick off the summer together, in a (wannabe) surfer's paradise. We stayed at Surfness Lodge, a friendly guest house that one could think of as a grown up hostel, making space for guests to come together and build a community - if only for a couple days.
Tinier-than-usual Kelly
Fantastic first meal, at Taberna do Ganhão
To best honest, it was still pretty chilly on the west coast of Portugal in early July. There was a brief window in which bathing suits felt doable...on the sand.
We had rented a car for the weekend (its own entire adventure; oh my God, the Lisbon roundabouts), which enabled us to easily check out Peniche nearby.
Azulejos in the small church
We drove out to Cape Carvoeiro for sunset, lamenting our stupidity at not bringing beers (and jackets). The geology of the site was fascinating - one could climb up and around and all over the wavy landscape, taking care not to fall through the sections that went straight down into the ocean.
Our Danish friends from the guesthouse came out to join us for dinner at Sabores & Peripécias, a fantastic wine and Portuguese tapas spot in the heart of Peniche. I found out the the owner had lived in Lisbon for many years, working at a famous bar, Pavilhão Chinês, just a few minutes from where I was living in Principe Real. We loved this spot so much, we went there twice during the weekend, enjoying his wine recommendations and buying up tinned fish as souvenirs.
at Sabores & Peripécias
Saturday was our big day: it was time to try surfing! Azzurra had pulled me into it - it's not something I would've signed up for of my own accord. But I loved it. Between having a fantastic instructor, being with Azzurra, and standing up on my third wave, how could I not? It was exhilarating.
Pre-lesson, total posers, a little nervous, awkwardly trying to hold boards twice our size:
Post-lesson, wet dogs, completely high on life, and with little strength left to yet more awkwardly carry huge boards:
With Guillermo, our surf instructor -
can't recommend him highly enough!
Saturday night, the Belgians organized a BBQ at the lodge for us and various friends of the lodge. We all contributed something, from sardinhas to watermelon salad to pan con tomate. It was a beautiful evening with new international friends.
Roel (pronounced rule) and Kobe, our Danish friends
After dinner, some of us headed to Danau, the (only) place to party in Baleal, to dance. It was extremely comical for two main reasons: 1) the COVID-19 social distancing signs posted in a shoulder-to-shoulder dance bar, and 2) the women who were dressed like they were at a club in a cosmopolitan city, and not at a beach bar.
On our last day, we took the ferry to Berlengas, the natural reserve island off the coast of Peniche, and Roel joined us.
Roel (pronounced rule)
It involved a hike up through the reserve, along the way spotting the birds using the island as a breeding ground, a walk through the 17th century fortress, a boat tour into some of the caves dotting the island, and finally resting with our feet up and a beer while waiting for the ferry back.
Forte de São João Baptista
Baleal with Azzurra was absolutely one of the best weekends during my time abroad this year. I would love to be able to explore more parts of the country outside Lisbon next time, especially the natural ones!
