Yes, Please: Dubrovnik

At the end of August, Brittany and I boarded our Turkish Air flight direct to Istanbul, ready for two and a half weeks of eating, beaching, touring, and relaxing in Croatia and Turkey.  

Our first destination was Dubrovnik, a picturesque, walled fortress of a city that feels like an Italian Disneyland: tons of ambiance, even more tourists.  There's one main shopping street that shoots from one end of town to the other, with offshoots that lead to residences, restaurants, and art galleries.  The city was ruled by Venice for awhile, and those Italians really left their mark.  There is Venetian architecture throughout, as well as lions, and there weren't too many menus sans a pasta dish.

 Our Airbnb was on a cute cobblestone path, which grew ever so slightly less attractive with each step up (especially with luggage!)

The view from our place: note our chiseled neighbor
 

Our first stop on the tourist track was the Franciscan Monastery, which is one of the oldest European pharmacies still in operation today.  My favorite feature of the monastery's architecture were the Romanesque-Gothic double pillars in the cloister.  So unique! 

Dubrovnik's clock tower, in the main square, is rung on the hour by two bronze men named Maro and Baro.  We entertained ourselves on much of the trip looking for the real-life Maro and Baro, who we imagined would be very handsome brothers that would each fall madly in love with one of us, and once each couple married,  Brittany and I would be sisters for real.  Let me spare you the suspense: we've already returned to the states and the search continues.

It took some time for us to adapt to the heat.  You'll find we're wearing hats in almost every picture, and my fan was in my hand even more often than my phone.  Fortunately, the evenings cooled down a bit, and that first evening we got to enjoy Buza, one of two bars that are accessed through a small hole in the city's wall and float precariously on the cliffs of the sea. 

Our full day in Dubrovnik was dedicated to walking the walls.  We geared up to be under the hot sun for a couple hours, and made our way up to take in the layers of history, the effects of the war, and the panoramic views.

We felt we had earned a great lunch, so we checked in with my other BFF, Rick Steves, who recommended Lady PiPi, a restaurant with a "comical, anatomically correct, and slightly off-putting statue out front".  We weren't quite sure how to pronounce it, and when Brittany asked directions from a lady at the ice cream shop, she exclaimed, in the cutest, high-pitched voice, "Ohh, Lady Pee Pee!"  Once we saw the statue, it really all made sense, and we couldn't stop quoting that lady.

I ate my first whole fish of the trip here, and Brittany tackled a bowl of shrimp (with heads), while we relaxed on the garden terrace that overlooked the town.  Those grilled vegetables may have been the most delicious part!

Fortified, we continued our explorations by heading up to Mount Srd (pronounced "surge"), to get a view over the city.  A modern cable car, put in recently, sweeps you right up to the top.  You can really appreciate the resilience of Dubrovnik's people from here, who survived eight months of siege in 1991-92 during their fight for independence from Yugoslavia.  To get supplies up to this fort, which was crucial in defending the city, everything had to be walked up by foot or donkey.  Hundreds of soldiers and civilians were killed during this time, and while the town seems to have rebounded well and tourism is definitely on the up-tick, you can still see and feel reminders of this dark time throughout.

We never could seem to get our act together in time for the sunset, so that night we instead ended up watching the moon rise over the harbor.   It was the most pristine, perfect evening out, and we had to be practically peeled away to make our dinner reservation at Proto, a recommendation made to us by our Croatian flight companion, Zorro, and one that I definitely would pass along.

 

On that, our last, evening in Dubrovnik, we decided to push through the final moments of jet lag and check out the town's nightlife.  It was a Saturday, and the streets were hopping.  We stopped and listened to live music for awhile, before stumbling upon this great street, where bars overflowed into the alley, pillow-propped people perched on the stairs, and a a structure had been set up for Sasha, the enviable dancer who had great moves, an even better dress, and could speak something like five languages.

All That Caz

At the beginning of August, we headed for Cazadero, up north on the Russian River, for a girls' getaway weekend.  Melissa's aunt graciously offered up her cabin to us, and we had a great time eating, chillin' and dancing on the deck.

Car one headed north on Thursday afternoon, and Melissa, Kasey, and I stopped in Occidental for "fine Italian dining" at the historic Union Hotel-it's been around since 1879.  Get a load of this: entrees come with minestrone soup, a generous salad, and a variety of antipasti, including salami, cheese, olives, kidney bean salad (the best thing there, if you'd believe it), and bread sticks.  Needless to say, we didn't make much headway on the entrees once they were finally put in front of us.

The next day, after a pit stop in Duncans Mills (population 175) for sustenance at Gold Coast Coffee and Bakery, we dropped Kasey off at her family's house in the Cazadero hills and then continued on to Armstrong Redwoods State Park.  It was wonderful to get the landscape of Muir Woods without the ambiance of (too many) screaming kids and inappropriately dressed tourists in hoards.  

The Parson Jones tree, below, wouldn't quite fit into the frame, as it is approximately 62 times my height.

That evening, car two arrived with Brittany, Gio, and Melissa's coworker/friend Katie in tow.  We left the house soon thereafter and headed for pizza and live music night at Raymond's Bakery in "downtown" Caz.  Nothing says Friday night like pizza and beer, you know?  We sat at the aquamarine table.  Just kidding!

The highlight of the evening was when Brittany sat down at the table, turned to me, and exclaimed, "Guess who's here?!"  I couldn't imagine who we would know that would be at Raymond's, until she told me: it was our pal Lucky, whose pants-less escapades you may remember from Kristen's bachelorette.  I was afraid what he might reveal if I got too close, but just know that's him, below, sitting all the way to the left.  Apparently Raymond's is the spot to be on a Friday night!

The next day we headed to our favorite (so far) little spot on the river, loaded up with PBR, french onion dip and Ruffles, and pool floaties.  What more could you want out of life?  It was such a relaxing day.

Fast-forward to the evening back at home, and we were holing up for a night of BBQ, mac salad, and s'mores, not to mention games, lots of wine, private dances to Pony, too much fun with a selfie stick, and a follow-the-leader dance party that got out of hand in the best way possible (equal parts laughter and quasi-cardiac arrest).  

Theme to the weekend: Skrillex and Diplo feat. Justin Bieber, Where Are U Now.

It was so nice to have a lovely place to stay while we were there, and I hope we can go back again soon!

Kristen + Daniel

On June 20, 2015 two really good people pronounced their love for each other amidst a background of pine trees and a foreground of people who love them immensely.  Kristen, our California girl, met her North Carolina mountain man at grad school in Chapel Hill.  Several years later, after many trips out to visit all of us in CA, and some of us going out to see them in NC, there we were in Mount Shasta, prepared to celebrate their marriage!

The rehearsal dinner Friday night was amazing-definitely a huge highlight of the weekend!  It was hosted by Kristen's aunt and uncle, Maggie and David, at their home in Mt. Shasta.  They prepared a delicious three-course meal all themselves, and served it on eclectic family china collected by various couples over the years.  There was also special beer with a custom label for the bride and groom!

The lovebirds were quite the celebrities over the weekend, so we felt excited any time we got Kristen to ourselves.  She and I had been talking weeks before about the risks involved with crying during your ceremony and turning into a puffy, red-faced monster.  To mitigate this, that evening I gave her a white hanky with blue embroidery, hoping it would also serve as her "something blue" for the big day.

There was lots of mingling, and at one point we got regaled by Uncle David's telling of how he met his wife, Maggie, which involved a party with a hot tub in the woods and a striking absence of clothing.  Oh, to be a young hippie living in Shasta.

Two more adorable lovebirds, the MOB, Carolyn, and her hubby, Brenn:

Our table was the obnoxious one in the back.  Boy, were we having a blast with our little UCSD reunion!

For the weekend, we had rented a huge house with a pool that slept a dozen people.  It was the perfect party house!

Saturday morning was upon us before we knew it, and Kristen came over to relax a bit before it was time to start getting ready.  We started with a cuddle session and then moved on to the pool!

Here's six out of eight girls from our freshman dorm, Harlan Suite 108, representing!  Amazing to still be in each others' lives ten years later to celebrate occasions such as this.

Obligatory apple-watch controlled photo of the group looking all spiffy before we left for the ceremony!  Quite the transformation.

We got settled into our seats at Carolyn and Brenn's house, on pins and needles, we were so excited.  The energy was mounting and we couldn't wait to see Kristen in her white dress!

 

Kristen was glowing, and the ceremony was beautiful; very inclusive of everyone in attendance.  Her uncle officiated the ceremony, and both sister of the groom, Laura, and Brittany read poems.  

Soon it was time for their heart-felt and personal vows.  I loved their telling each other that one was their biscuit and the other was their gravy, which tied their vows together so sweetly and really injected some southern lovin' into it all.

And there you have it folks, Mr. and Mrs. Brookshire!  You could feel the weight of the moment lift as we all kicked into celebration mode.  

Enjoying apps and drinks


Suite 108, and my favorite photo of the day

13 UCSD grads in attendance!

Our table, right after dinner

There were so many beautiful speeches.  I have to say Kristen's dad's was my favorite.  He told about how he used to volunteer in her class when she was little, and how she was always so eager to answer the teachers' questions, even before they had finished asking them.  Her hand would shoot up in the air and she'd exclaim, "Oh, oh, me!"  He said those were some of his favorite memories with her.  Then he described that when she met Daniel, all he could see was that little girl throwing her arm in the air and yelling out, "Oh, oh, me!"  He had us all in tears.

Kristen had asked me to give a speech as well, and I was equal parts honored and nervous.  I blacked out for most of it, as usually happens when I'm in front of crowds, but I know one line I'm really sorry I forgot to say when talking about living together freshman year: "Since Kristen was in water polo, we got used to her being in various states of undress, and I like to think this 'clothing optional' lifestyle will carry over into her married life."  I'll have to be satisfied with imagining the blushing!

Another big highlight of the wedding festivities was the couple's first dance.

Well, actually their second!  They started with a very sweet slow dance, and then kicked up their heels cackalacky style for the next (they had even changed into tap shoes earlier on without us noticing).  Check out their surprise for us all, below:

After that, everyone got involved, and I so enjoyed watching Daniel and his family do their thing.

Aside from Daniel's grandmother giving us all quite a fright later in the evening when she took a tumble, the reception was lovely and filled with such great joy!

The weekend was a priceless opportunity to be together with great friends that are all so spread out across the country these days.  I also enjoyed getting to spend time with both families, and see them become one.  Kristen and Daniel, a huge thanks to you and yours for hosting such an incredible weekend for us all to celebrate with you.  We can't wait to see what the future brings for you both!

These Are My Reflections

If I were really talented this post would be scored by a Christina Aguilera vs. Usher mashup, or at least a Glee version that layers the Mulan classic "Reflection" on top of "Confessions Part II".  Instead, you'll have to imagine just how great (or potentially catastrophic) that would be.  So excuse the corny title; now you know what I was going for.

This past weekend I spent with my parents in Vacaville, and while garage saling with my mom, we drove down Monte Vista and stumbled upon Vacaville High's senior graduation.  I realized that 10 years ago almost to the day, I was sitting out on that football field, nervous, emotional, and extremely hot, imagining what the future held for me and what my next ten years would be like.

I knew there would be milestones: that I'd go to college, get a job, and become a grown up.  And yet of course as I look back on these last ten years, it's not the big milestones that stand out, but all the wonderful little things that have added up to equal such an amazing life.  Getting a dog for the first time ever, resulting in endless wonderful little Emma kisses.  Discovering pistachio gelato at Sorbetteria Castiglione in Bologna.  Finally moving to San Francisco and getting to live with my best friend every day.

And the people!  You guys have really made it something else.  From UCSD to Bologna, Siena and the villa to San Francisco and Box, I'm constantly amazed at all the wonderful friends I've accumulated around the world (I would need to post an impossible number of photos to include all you incredible people!).

I've gained so much confidence and perspective over these ten years.  I've learned about things not happening as you expect they will, but just as they should.  I've learned that ten pounds is a small price to pay for daily gelato.  I've learned that geography doesn't measure closeness, that you ought to read parking signs, and that it doesn't really matter what you do, but with whom you do it.  

And I've learned that a decade goes by really fast.  Here's to another ten years of new experiences, friends and family old and new, and self discovery.  Oh yes, and food.