Part I: The Discovery
While strolling the canals with Letizia, we noticed a building in a residential area that seemed to be entirely commercial, rather than being a shop downstairs and residential on the upper floors. We decided to wander in, putting in motion a whole series of events and experiences.
May I introduce, Veilinggebouw de Zwaan
(Auctioneers the Swan)
This place was cool as all get out. They do auction rounds several times a year, filling the many-floored building with treasures that people can come to view and touch and determine on which items they want to bid. It was basically a touchable museum in a gorgeous, expansive canal house.
You too can have a piece of the Ming Dynasty
Treasures everywhere!
This was our favorite room of them.
The item I was most interested in, Dutch ceramic houses
View from the top
We took a rest on the top floor, which was mostly filled with African art. Sitting in chairs that were also up for auction, she sketched a small corner of the room while I flipped through the catalog. Suddenly there was a crashing sound and as I ducked, an African wooden plate grazed my head on the way down. No one, absolutely no one, was concerned about my head - only the wooden plate that had lost a small shard on impact (with the floor, not my head). I was fine, mostly flustered, but couldn't help comparing how differently such an episode would have transpired in the states.
The crash corner
I commented to Leti that there was probably a Rembrandt lining the walls that we were oblivious to - and there was. An etching for which the bidding would start at 12,000 euro (this was the most expensive item I could find in the catalog).
I decided to set up an account, and they recommended
I return for the live auction two weeks later, which I did.
Part II: The Live Auction
I showed up expecting the place be packed, but it was just me and about a dozen Dutch people. Maybe this had to do with it being a Wednesday morning at 10am. I'd been given my bidding number and the direction to "not move too much" lest I accidentally bid on something. There were screens all around the hall (zaal) showcasing the item currently up for bid, with photos, a description, and the bidding status (all in Dutch). I had my numbers written down for the three items I desired: an ebony and ivory mirror, my blue Dutch houses, and an antique camera for Letizia.
When my first item came around, I had to boldly clear my throat and call out, "English please!" Everyone in the zaal turned to stare at me, but the auctioneer swiftly switched to bilingual bidding and we got going. I raised my number once, but the mirror was quite popular and I lost it. But it was good practice for the lots to come!
Next up, the camera. Letizia gave me a 300 euro limit, and I went back and forth with someone until he bid 260 and then me 280, which topped me out. Silence until: "Going once, going twice, sold - to the lady in the zaal." I got it! Letizia squealed when she found out.
Finally, my Dutch houses. At this point, as much as I loved the houses, I mostly wanted a souvenir of my auction experience. So I was pretty willing to fight and win. I had put in online bids, which is incredibly stupid if you're also coming in person, because you might end up bidding against yourself, which is exactly what I did. She started at 100 euro with an online bid, and then I raised my number (hoping she would put it together and keep me from double bidding). She realized it, and said, "Um, you seem to be bidding against yourself." I replied, "I don't want to do that!" at which point everyone chuckled good-naturedly. So in an unusual and gracious move, she started the lot over again at 80 euro. At this point, though, someone else in the zaal started bidding, and we went back and forth, me cringing every time and the auctioneer having to nudge me to bid or give up. Finally, she hit the gavel again and said those satisfying words: "Sold to the lady in the zaal!"
I said to Letizia, we won!
And she said, you mean we get to buy them.
No, no, I said - we won.
Celebration drinks...
...at the best spot at Cafe de Jaren
Part III: The Collection
A few days later, after figuring out payment with Letizia, I returned for the collection of our collection.
What I thought would be a perfunctory errand again turned into much more in this magical building. There was a film crew on site and I ended up being an extra in the background of a Dutch documentary series about the actor Ramsey Nasr and his art collection. A Dutch friend later said, "Oh wow...yes...he is a very famous and good actor!" So there you go.
Ramsey Nasr
Nasr with the auctioneer
Just collecting his items, like me
And that is my Amsterdam auction house story! It was such a welcoming, accessible place - nothing like I would've imagined beforehand. I'm so please that Letizia and I now have these items that will always carry this fun memory along with them.
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