Eight Weeks in Lisbon - 2022

 

I spent eight weeks working remotely from Lisbon in June-July of 2022.  My maternal family is originally from the Azores, a nine-island Portuguese archipelago in the Atlantic Ocean.  Staying in Lisbon, while still far from my family on the island, gave me the opportunity to immerse myself in a homeland culture while also enjoying the benefits of a big city.

Lisbon is a city full of color.  The warm sun reflecting off the rainbows of buildings and the ornate azuleju tiles makes this old city sparkle anew.  It's easy to lose one's self in the labyrinthian streets and hills, and as such, to stumble upon surprise parks, monuments, shops, and other hidden gems, as I did countless times.

The people are friendly and kind, the pastries delightful, the panoramas breathtaking. Water is always close - whether it be the river Tagus at the foot of the city, or just several miles west to the Atlantic.  There's an impression of the city folding in upon itself and becoming smaller, so strong is the sense of community.  In Lisbon, the people know how to live.

Eight weeks is a lot to condense into a single blog post.  I've broken my experience down a bit below to highlight some of the memories that most stand out to me.

Festa do Santo Antonio

As soon as I arrived, Lisbon's annual month-long festival was just beginning.  There were free, open-air parties open to all in multiple spots around the city.  And this year was really in full swing, because Lisboetas had gone two years without due to the pandemic.   There are corny pop bands playing fun music (accordions are often involved), the smell of sardines on the grill (strict fishing laws surround sardines, so this is the only time to get them!), and a general conviviality amongst everyone there.  I went to at least five different neighborhood festas during June.

Enjoying the festa with cousins 

Nadien and Mario visiting from Gilroy

Pork sandwich

Sardines in the street

It's no wonder how I got COVID

The complete mosh pit of people in the Alfama neighborhood has got to be how I got COVID.  Even though I was on my own, my Airbnb hosts brought me groceries and I was blessed with cooler weather that week.  It gave me a moment to slow down coming off my six weeks in Amsterdam, and towards the end of my quarantine I was still able to explore some beautiful outdoor spots.

Like the botanical garden near my apartment!

Vibrant art

Lisbon is a city full of art - from the melancholy fado music pouring out of restaurants, to the calçada, the intricately designed (and I must say, slippery!) mosaic pavements.   

One day on the way to my co-working space, I stumbled upon the Amália Rodrigues museum, which preserves and showcases her original home. A couple favorite details from my tour: one, she never knew her birthday, but her grandmother remembered it was during cherry season, enabling them to pinpoint her birthday to July and inspiring her to decorate parts of her house with cherry themes, and two, Amália always had a parrot, and that parrot (even the replacements) was always named Chico, and there is still a Chico in residence today, who has outlived Amália.

I returned to her house for a concert celebrating the 102nd anniversary of Amália Rodrigues, in the back garden. It was one of the top moments of my Lisbon stay: all dressed up on a warm summer's evening, in such a historic setting, letting the music of saudade pour over me. Chico even made an appearance and often "sang" along with the fadistas. Interested in listening to some fado music?  Here's a great place to start.

At the concert

And of course, art is all around in the ornate building designs, the azulejos, and the mosaic pavement tiles.

My mother's family name

My favorite façade azulejos I found in Lisbon, 

located just around the corner from my apartment

I made my own sardinhas mosaics with a local artist 

through an Airbnb experience

And of course, a city full of art means a city full of artists!

Me in Largo do Carmo square, 

enjoying a coke and reading my book, 

captured by a local watercolorist who 

makes people look way cooler than they are

Hidden Treasures of the City

Here are a few of my favorite field trips around the city.

Carmo Convent

Fronteira Palace

A true Portuguese motif at Fronteira Palace

Fronteira water feature

Aqueduct/Resevoir Mãe d'Água das Amoreiras

On the Up and Up

I took so many furniculars while I was in Lisbon, including the Elevador do Lavra, Elevador da Glória, and Elevador da Bica.  They're fun and save you a couple steep hills on a hot day!

The Elevador da Glória take you up to... 

...the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara in the 

Príncipe Real neighborhood where I was staying

The Bica elevator has a super tiny car!

Bica route during the festas

At the top of the Lavra funicular was what felt like 

a real hidden gem: Miradouro do Jardim do Torel

Did I mention Lisbon is a city of hills?

This street straight up has an escalator,

and no it's not leading to a mall.

Rooftops and Lookouts

It's almost hard not to stumble upon a miradouro, or vista point, around Lisbon.  The absolute crème de la crème is Senhora do Monte, which is the highest lookout in the city, and justifiably the best.

With my colleague Sam, who just happened to be 

visiting with her family, at Miradouro da Graça

during a tuk tuk tour of the city together

View from the rooptop pool at the Memmo Alfama hotel

Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, again

Mama Shelter rooftop with some friends made through 

an impromptu bar crawl, the main one being Eliza 

to the right of me, and almost all of them Brazilian!

During a tour of 

Parque Natural da Arrábida

Balancing Work and Play

How was I able to live in Lisbon for two months?  I was working remotely!  While in Amsterdam I primarily worked from my riverfront apartment, in Lisbon I decided to join a coworking office so I could meet more people (and get daytime AC).  I selected Resvés Cowork Space, which was just a 15 minute walk from my apartment.  I often would take calls from the patio, where coworkers could see a beautiful old church, trees swaying in the breeze, and children playing in the background.

It was a fun mix of locals, transplants, and digital nomads!

I also got to meet up with some coworkers, old and new!  Serendipitously there was another Zendeskian working at Resvés, for one.  Two, I had lunch a couple times with Raquel, who is based in Ireland but was home in Lisbon for the summer.  And three, I got to see an old Box friend, Petra,  a few times and meet her sweet toddler, Nate.

With Raquel at Campo Pequeno

At the park with Petra and Nate

I did a handful of Airbnb Experiences, which I highly recommend checking out anywhere you go.  They are small group activities and excursions organized and led by locals.  

Beach at Parque Natural da Arrábida that I never 

would've found without the local guide

Captaining a sailboat on the Tagus at sunset

The mysterious Initiation Well at 

Quinta da Regaleira in Sintra

Lookout point at Quinta da Regaleira

And for a sweet end to my stay, I made pastel de nata from scratch on my last day in Lisbon.  It was the best one I've ever eaten, and the most time-consuming baking I've ever done.  For the first half of the process, I was really trying to memorize the technique so I could recreate this delicacy for my family at home.  But by the second half I had resolved this would be a once-in-a-lifetime experience.  I'll leave this to the professionals!

2022: Year in Review

The past year has been filled with simple blessings already so easily taken for granted, such as being in person with loved ones or getting on planes to see something beyond our four walls.  When I compare where we are as a global society now compared to early 2021, it's night and day, and I am so grateful for what this progress has afforded me this year.

I share below the year in photos and memories, in highlights and lowlights.  Scrolling through all these beautiful faces and reflecting on my experiences throughout the year is perennially joy-inducing.  All these choices, the triumphs small and large, the little moments spent together - add up to a beautiful, well-lived life.    

There are two strong themes that are percolating in my mind as I go into 2023.  The first is home.  Since moving out of my Glen Park apartment and in with my parents due to the pandemic in late 2020, I've had a lot of freedom from bills and responsibility.  It's allowed me to spend the summer living in Europe, to not feel rushed upon my return to find a permanent housing solution.  But some of these factors have left me feeling rootless, craving to carve out my own space and plant myself somewhere.  I want a place to hang my hat in the stretches when I'm not exploring the world.  Importantly, my sense of home goes beyond the physical - to me it also means community and relationships.  After so much traveling this year, I want my own place to gather the things and the people that I love.  I want to build home.

The second theme is surrender.  With so much freedom comes copious amounts of choice - something I am so grateful to have and yet often debilitated by.  Where do I go from here?  What is the right path?  I am learning to detach from outcome, to trust the process, to surrender.  To realize there is no right, no wrong, just moving forward.  I want to keep this at the forefront of my consciousness, to resist the illusion of control, and to practice flowing, trusting, and surrendering all through the year.

In 2022, I...

Reset for the new year at one of my most special spots, Xinalani yoga retreat in Puerto Vallarta, with Brittany

Took a private arial yoga class with a view of the ocean

Had an unexpected visit from Letizia, all the way from Paris for work

Reveled in group dinners, which still felt incredibly fresh "post"-COVID

Finally got up the courage to step foot in the creepy abandoned barn behind my parent's court in Vacaville (for one second) that I'd been afraid of since I was a kid

Got reunited with my prison pen pal, Brian, who was released early in the year!

Learned and constantly repeated an extremely helpful mantra for Enneagram Ones like me: "I am good" - this helps me dissociate my intrinsic worth from productivity and perfectionism

Lost to my dad at mini golf (shocking)

Enjoyed several wine tastings with friends at my favorite spot in Napa, Laird Family Estate

Spring with James and Caroline

Fall with Preetam and Brittany

Hit the three year mark working at Zendesk

Built (almost) successful Leprechaun traps with my little cousins Dylan and Kendall

Enjoyed kiddo time in North Carolina with the Brookshires

Became very popular when I caught a butterfly

Celebrated Brittany's birthday around SF

Got reunited with my Canadian Xinalani friends when they visited Napa

Disconnected for a couple more tech shabbats (24 hours with no technology)

Celebrated Easter with the family, including grandma visiting from the Azores

Made a courageous leap and moved to Europe for three months to work remotely for the summer

Showered myself in orange and powdered sugar at King's Day in Amsterdam

Slacked (off) from this room with a view, my apartment on the Amstel overlooking the Opera House

Enjoyed Amsterdam with old and new friends

Letizia visiting from Paris

Ian and Kelsey's Europe trip just happened to coincide 

Amsterdam Zendesk colleagues

Amy, an old Box contact

And Brittany came for ten days

Got brave with going out into the world to meet new friends and experiences

My Amsterdam stoop

Caught sight of the King of the Netherlands on Liberation Day at the dock across from my apartment

Went gay bar hopping in Rembrandtplein with a Dutch duke

Immersed myself in art and architecture amidst the many renowned and also lesser-known museums in Amsterdam

Became a self-fancied international art collector, starting with my first-ever auction purchase and burgeoning expensively from there

Found home in hanging out with Italians in Amsterdam (searching out pockets of Italy when I felt lonely was a helpful tool over the summer)

Blissed out at a serendipitous Michelin meal in Giethoorn with Brittany

Soared through Amsterdam on my bike (it really is the best way to see the city) - and sometimes I didn't soar so much as strenuously pump my legs to make it over steep bridges, but long stretches along the water gazing up at canal houses made the huff worth it

Hit a low curb at an angle on my bike, in front of dozens of people, and had to jump off it to avoid falling.  One passerby called out, "Nice catch!" and it was such a moment of grace and being a part of the world that I didn't even mind looking like an idiot.

Returned to the town of my soul, Bologna, enjoying the best local delicacies with old friends

Took Italian-language yoga for the first time at a retreat in Umbria with Azzurra (and a dozen other lovely people) 

Ate my fair share of sardinhas on the streets of Lisbon during the June Festas dos Santos Populares 

I got COVID during it too

Made new friends and overlapped with others while in Portugal for two months

Cousins visiting Lisbon from CA

Sam, a colleague I speak to weekly but met in person 

only for the first time in Lisbon during her family vacation

Petra, another past Box colleague

And Raquel, a Zendesk one

New Brazilian girlfriends

Tried surfing for the first time and stood up on my third wave

Spent many days at my co-working space and community, Resvés, meeting locals as well as digital nomads from all over

Went to several Meetup events and Airbnb Experiences, almost always on my own, stepping way out of my comfort zone to meet new people and do unique activities (like board game nights, expat happy hours, supper clubs, local crafts, museum hangs, guided day trips, and even my first-ever bar crawl)

Captained a sailboat on Lisbon's River Tagus

Moved through frequent bouts of loneliness as I lived in places far from close friends and family for three months.  This was often flipped on its head by one simple act: going outside.

Attended Amalia Rodrigues' 102nd birthday fado concert at her home-turned-museum

Swooned over countless azulejos across Lisbon

My mother's maiden name

This one calls to mind my 

Portuguese grandfather, a dairy farmer

Luxuriated atop Lisbon rooftops

Made pastel de nata for the first and likely last time (best I've ever tasted, but oh, so involved)

Went on another yoga retreat, at Alamos near Albufeira in the Algarve. I can't understate what a great option yoga retreats are for solo travelers.  I had meaningful conversations with strangers and never ate alone if I didn't want to.

Experienced my first blindfolded meal and was truly amazed at the shift of senses

Took a mindfulness seminar where we were barefoot and blindfolded and walked through the property in a line, hand on the shoulder of the person in front of us, led by the facilitator. We walked over different terrains, in and out of shade, brushed along bushes, smelled lavender, had water poured over our feet. I had no idea what was coming next, and I felt positively giddy and joyful about it. I was shocked and later moved to tears at my physical response to not knowing: that I could be so pleased and eager to embrace the surprise of the unknown and trust that it would work out.

Felt kissed by the sun exploring the dazzling beaches and weaving paths of Lagos

Saw the famous Cave of Benagil and had a BBQ on a private beach in the Algarve

Basked in hugs and kisses from Azzurra's grandparents in Calabria

Enjoyed many a warm, vibrant summer night out on the town across more than one country

Learned that one does not eat hot figs directly off the tree

La maledetta mangiafichi

Celebrated mamma's 60th birthday (belatedly) 

Enjoyed the beach with Azzu and Ale in Scilla, Calabria

Laughed uproariously at the absolute worst meal I've ever had in Italy (two words: seafood lasagna)

Missed my international flight due to connection cancelations in Calabria, and lost my luggage for over a week coming home from Europe

Pulled a prank on Kasey by switching dresses with Liz halfway through her wedding

Sublet an apartment in San Francisco for the fall, situated just half a block from Golden Gate Park

Finally walked across the Golden Gate Bridge (and back!), with Cathleen

Celebrated my dad's birthday with a wine tasting at Cline Vineyards

Reveled in being reunited with old friends in the bay

Said a reluctant goodbye to my manager/work BFF, Jeff, when he left Zendesk

Endured an extreme amount of work ambiguity through the second half of the year with leadership changes, an uncertain economy, layoffs, and finally Zendesk's acquisition in November

Through it all, was supported by an excellent group of colleagues

With my friend and new manager, Jamye

Lunch with my teammate, Kim

Past and present teammates

Saying farewell to my VP, Rendi

Soaked up family time and laughs

My mom and her brother, my godfather

With Kendall, Ashley, and baby Aubree

Tickles for Dylan

Tickles for Kendall and Briella

SF visit with Daniel

Thanksgiving cuddles with Aubree

Sharing embarrassing stories over turkey

And seized the opportunity for special visits with friends and also friends' kiddos

At Pree's baby shower in anticipation of little Sahana

Meeting Federica (a Bologna flatmate's) baby Nicole

So much fun swimming, playing, and roasting marshmallows 

with Rosalee in Vacaville

Meeting Jeff's new daughter, Abigail

At Rowan's first birthday party in Precita Park

Gearing up for baby Emily at Maryana's shower

(apparently this is my baby shower skirt?)

Got COVID boosted at Hardly Strictly Bluegrass Festival

Attempted to spot the Blue Angels through the fog (I swear there was fog) with Katie 

Took up some new and some trusted hobbies and art projects

Shibori-dyed napkins

Beating cousins at ladder ball

Mosaic sardinhas made by me in Lisbon

One of many puzzles

My first ceramic wheel class, at Pickney Clay in SF

Was taught important lessons about releasing perfectionism and my attachment to outcome through my six-week pottery class (check out my handmade, hard-won treasures!)

Made an effort to travel without leaving San Francisco

The superb Guo Pei exhibit at the Legion of Honor

Sharing fado music (Mariza concert) with Jason and Freddy

Sunset harbor views with Katie (and Brittany!)

Explored my temporary SF neighborhood, the Sunset, especially enjoying nearby walks

Atop Grandview Park, overlooking GGP and the Sunset

Volunteered with Compass Family Services to make sanitation kits, and with the holiday gift drive

Dressed up as a "1950's housewife who has had enough and just wants a damn break" for Halloween

with Cher from Clueless

Was a lucky lady, winning the Dollar Game at Thanksgiving

Tia Diane won Game 2

Celebrated Christmas with the family

Capped off the year by slowing down for a cozy, delicious, and rainy birthday getaway in Guerneville with Brittany

Birthday morning with mom

Travel

1. Puerto Vallarta, Mexico
2. Half Moon Bay, CA
3. Chapel Hill, NC
4. Amsterdam, Keukenhof, Haarlem, Giethoorn, and Alkmaar, Netherlands
5. Bologna and Umbria, Italy
6. Lisbon, Baleal, Peniche, Sintra, Caparica, Carcavelos, Arrábida, and Lagos, Portugal
7. Calabria, Italy
8. Guerneville, CA

Live Shows

1. John Mayer @Chase Center
2. Stromae @Bill Graham
3. Mariza @SF Jazz Miner Auditorium
4. Allen Stone's Karaoke Extravaganza @Bimbo's 365 Club
5. Earhustle's Nigel Poor and Earlonne Woods in conversation with Piper Kerman @SF Main Library, Koret Auditorium
6. Jonathan Van Ness: Imaginary Living Room Olympian @Castro Theater
7. Chris Rock & Dave Chappelle @Chase Center
8. The Nutcracker @SF Ballet

Spotify Wrapped

Great new albums from a few of my favorite artists came out this year, and I was listening on repeat.

Books

This year I read 56 books and over 19,000 pages.  Last year I remember feeling like my selections throughout the year were lackluster, but this time around the sun I found myself enthralled by the majority.  Sometimes one book would lead me to another, like Shuggie Bain pointing me towards the  economical yet affecting Small Things Like These by Claire Keegan, or The Crane Wife inspiring me to explore the eerie writings of Shirley Jackson with We Have Always Lived in the Castle and The Haunting of Hill House, the latter two perfectly timed for Halloween.

Top Fiction

1. Tomorrow, and Tomorrow, and Tomorrow by Gabrielle Zevin
2. Giovanni's Room by James Baldwin
3. Shuggie Bain by Douglas Stewart
4. Stoner by John Williams

Top Non-fiction

1. Bittersweet by Susan Cain
2. Finding Your Own North Start by Martha Beck
3. The Crane Wife by C.J. Hauser
4. Stolen Focus by Johann Hari

Obsessions

• Ethel Cain - Her breakout album Preacher's Daughter cut right through me.  "Thoroughfare" was my most-listened to song of the year, likely by a landslide.
• Poffertjes - these tiny Dutch pancakes, traditionally topped with butter and powdered sugar, made my soul swell with delight at every bite
• Voice messages - this was another saving grace while far away from friends this year.  Voice messages have become such a meaningful and fun way of staying connected as well as an unexpected tool of personal reflection.  Receiving one from a friend is always a treat.
• Oracle Cards - One of my Portuguese yoga instructors had this deck as part of his altar during class and I was so struck by our group's experience with it that I asked for one for Christmas.  The guidance is thought-provoking and poignantly written.  Below is the card I pulled on my birthday just a few days ago.  Brings it all back to surrender!