Britt in Holland: Ring my Bell

Towards the end of my time in Amsterdam, Brittany came to visit for about 10 days.  We packed a lot in considering I was still working!  Here are the highlights.

Wandering the Town

It is difficult to tire (emotionally) of wandering the streets and canals of central Amsterdam.  

Excited to explore with Britt!

At the steps of my apartment on the Amstel

We lost count of how many dachshunds we encountered;

Britt seemed to be a magnet for them

The voyeurism Amsterdam enables sparks the imagination-

who are these people?  What is their story?

How can they afford this magnificent canal house?

At the surprisingly delightful Our Lord in the Attic museum,

admiring the antique Delft tiles

Why are bridges always fun?

A walk through Vondelpark is always a treat; we upped the ante by strolling at dusk:

What setting is more beautiful than this?

New Friends

One of her first nights in town, we decided we should try to "be young" and "go out."  We found a free club in Rembrandtplein and settled in with a view over the square.  A very gregarious American expat at the table next to us engaged us in conversation, the women next to him meanwhile stole his table (who does that?), and before we knew it we were asking him to join us and embarking on a journey with CJ that would last all night.  He and his partner in crime for that night, Berbee, were so fun and open about their lives that we couldn't help but become instant one-night friends.  Throughout the night, we adventured through drag bars (Bar Lellebel) and gay bars (Cafe Montmartre) and just had a fabulous time chatting and dancing with them.  The best thing we learned about our new friends?  Berbee is actually a Dutch Duke.  He even gets special perks on KLM!

With Berbee and CJ

Early in my stay, I had gone to a Meetup for expats at a bar one Saturday night.  I had to muster courage to go to an event like this on my own, but I ended up having a really fantastic time.  I met people from all over the world, and everyone was welcoming and inclusive.  After talking to one group for about an hour, I realized I didn't know where one of the guys was from.  When he responded, "Napoli," I switched to Italian and he almost dropped dead.  How satisfying that was!  After that, we attracted all the Italians present, had many conversations about the best pizza in Amsterdam, and shut down the bar with promises to meet up and find out who was right on the pizza front.  

Soon, we'd started a "Best pizza in Amsterdam!" Whatsapp group and were finally able to get us back together for dinner while Brittany was visiting.

With our friends Marcello (Rome), 

Alessandro (Sardinia), and Raffaele (Naples)

It's safe to say we went with Raffaele's suggestion.

Bike Lanes 

I finally got up the courage to rent a bike a couple weeks into my stay in Amsterdam.  I needed that time to observe how traffic worked, and to try to solve the seemingly minute yet infinitely vital detail of how, on a bike, one turns left.

When I went into Swapfiets (highly recommend if renting for more than a few days) to rent my 20 euro a month bike, I asked the young guy adjusting my bike to the lowest setting, "Any recommendations for someone who's not used to city biking?"  His response: "Just don't die."  Alrighty then.

I can't remember the last time my mind worked as hard as it did biking through Amsterdam.  Understanding the traffic rules, observing and learning from other bicyclists, holding the map and directions in my mind, predicting traffic lights and matching my speed to them to avoid stopping - it was a fascinating puzzle to solve, all while taking in the most delightful, soaring views.  I adored it.

Needing to scope out the scene was the same for Britt but on an accelerated timeline.  About a week in to the trip, she was ready to rent a bike for a day at Westerpark.

I was seriously so proud of her.

We must've biked 40 minutes through the city on her first go!

We stumbled upon "Rolling Kitchens" 

- an annual food truck and music festival

Trio Bier: Boot-stomping Amsterdam songs

We ate our way around the park and 

gobbled up yet another serving of poffertjes

The festival was so fun and unexpected!  We got to try so many different kinds of foods, people watched some interesting characters, and listened to a wide variety of musicians before biking our way back home.

One final cruise on Brittany's last night, stopping often to take in the various views:

Biking Amsterdam is not for the faint of heart, but oh, how it can make your heart soar.  

Unique Restaurants & Delicious Food

I already posted about our red carpet experience at de Lindenhof in Giethoorn, which quite literally takes the cake for the best dining experience I had in the Netherlands (and second best in my whole life; shout out to Alinea).  Here are a few other dining experiences that stood out while Brittany was visiting!

An array of delicacies at Zoldering

Blauw Indonesian food

Lots of great choices for Indonesian in Amsterdam 

due to a sordid past with colonialism-

definitely worth a try (the food, not the colonialism)

Moeders (meaning "Mothers")

Kitschy spot covered floor to ceiling in pictures 

of peoples' - you guessed it - mothers

The opposite angle - our taste of real Dutch comfort food. 

We ordered the bountiful combo platter which included 

stewed beef, red cabbage, apple sauce, and more.

Don't skip Pancake House Upstairs:

Their no-nonsense restaurant naming gives you 

a sense of how seriously they take their pancakes

At d'Vijff Vlieghen

This place really wowed me.  They are an extremely traditional Dutch fine dining restaurant, and while the food was nice, what stands out is the unparalleled setting.  This place is a labrynth of historic rooms and artwork, including four original sketches by Rembrandt.  I felt like I was in a time-warp, and I was sad to leave it when dinner was done.

If only I remember what she said to invoke this face

Apple pie at an adorable hidden basement cafe in De Pijp

called Bij Paul - the coziest, homiest little breakfast spot you 

can imagine.  They also sell reasonably priced Delftware!

Apple pie model

And that was our trip together!  While juggling work with Brittany visiting was challenging (and jealousy-inducing since she was on PTO and I wasn't!), looking back, we made so many lovely memories together.  I will forever be able to close my eyes and return to the feelings of peace and delight we had in the garden of de Lindenhof, or call back the hilarity of hearing Brittany ringing her little bicycle bell behind me for no reason at all but the fun of it.  

Day trips from Amsterdam

I fit in four day trips from Amsterdam during my six weeks there: Keukenhof, Haarlem, Giethoorn, and Alkmaar.  My favorite?  Giethoorn.  Here's a bit about each!

Keukenhof

I timed my Netherlands trip so that I would miss neither King's Day nor tulip season.  Keukenhof, a tulip theme park (think less rides and more photo ops) about 40 minutes outside Amsterdam in Lisse, is a tourist haven but not to be missed.  There are thousands upon thousands of different tulip varieties planted in lovely designs and arrangements.  And if you get there early enough (I'd say arrive no later than 9:30 - earlier is better!), then it's a peaceful park to stroll through.  Come later and you'll feel trapped between hoards of tourists and influencers.  

Popular even in April 1976

Mom and Dad at Keukenhof

 

Walking amongst the flowers was delightful, with unexpected designs and colors and pathways around every corner.  And the visitors were all so happy to be there as well - it felt like a big community of flower-loving strangers.

 

 

A couple offered to take the above photo for me.  They are Norwegian, but the woman studied at Sac State, and the man rowed for Norway in the 1984 LA Olympics.  Amazing the connections you can draw with people (I'm talking California, not olympic, connections)!

 

Back at home in Amsterdam with my antique 

Delft vase and vivid red tulips (50 for €7.50!)

Haarlem

Here's what not to do in Haarlem: go on a Monday.  I knew it was a risk and that the museums would be closed, but I had been mislead that there was a cool market in the main square to make up for it, which there was not.  A cool market at least.  So, as it turned out, most everything was closed and I didn't get the full Haarlem day trip experience.  I would return perhaps on a Saturday for the real market, or any other day to also visit the Frans Hals Museum.  Still, I wandered the canals, discovered a hofje, visited the main church, and enjoyed exploring this smaller version of Amsterdam.

One success I had in Haarlem was entering another hofje: van Bakenes.  It's always a little akward, because real people live around these secret courtyards, but it feels like such a special window into a local way of life.

Giethoorn

Brittany visited for ten days towards the end of my time in Amsterdam.  The pure highlight of our time together in the Netherlands was our private tour of Giethoorn.

We used Get Your Guide and were swiftly driven the 90 minutes north to this roadless hamlet filled with canals, flora, and whimsy around every bend.  We immediately jumped on a boat and began our canal cruise.

Traffic jam!

My favorite anecdote from our guide told about how many of the traditional houses have a canal-facing door with no doorknob.  This is because it was town tradition that a husband would carry his wife over the threshold of that door on their wedding day, and then the door would only be used again when one of them died and was carried back out again.  Of course, there's more than one door to the house and they'd use that to come and go throughout their lives - don't think they were trapped in there from wedding to dying day, but the symbolism I found touching, if not practical.  

Knobless door

You'd think all the homes would be quaint but some were huge!

We spent the entire canal tour emitting high-pitched squeaks in response to the cuteness all around and looking at each other with wide heart eyes each time some newly adorable setting would emerge.   

Before embarking on our boat tour, we had appealed to our guide to help us find a restaurant that would be a little more local and interesting than the tourist trap at the dock.  He told us not to worry and he would make it happen before we returned.  This man lives up to his promises.  

While researching Giethoorn weeks prior, I had stumbled upon De Lindenhof, a two-Michelin starred complex that offers not only a restaurant, but also guest houses and gardens and essentially an entire oasis.  It certainly piqued my interest, but I couldn't figure out how to even make a reservation (dining appeared to be for guests only), and since I knew transportation would be tricky I just gave up on the whole idea.  

But then I found myself magically walking the red carpet toward its doors and emerging into its secret gardens to a warm welcome and a glass of champagne.  Our host told us our driver had called to say he had "very special guests."  Indeed.

Upon looking at the menu, we could choose between a four- eight- or twelve-course lunch.  We split the difference and chose eight - assuming our driver knew what he was getting into when he brought us there.  The food amazed: awe-striking presentation, complex flavors and texture combinations - we were in heaven.  It was one of those days that you know is just perfect and will be one of the best days of your life and yet you're still present and living in it.  We emanated pleasure and gratitude.  

The service wasn't stuffy in the least - I truly felt like we were visiting friends.  We shared a very generous wine pairing - adorably called a bobarrangement (BOB standing for something along the lines of a designated driver in the NL) - which only heightened our sense of awe.

B+K

For a break before one of many desserts, we strolled about the gardens.  The chef has a boat he sometimes takes guests out on, and the oasis is filled with sculptures and inviting seating areas to take in the peaceful surroundings from different angles.  

It was idyllic: white puffy clouds reflected off tranquil waterways, birds singing, belly full of delights.  And all with my best friend.  It was a perfect day.

Alkmaar

For our other day trip, Brittany and I decided to go to Alkmaar, a short train ride away, for their Friday cheese market.  The whole thing is a bit of a tourist trap, but they are continuing the traditions of centuries past, and I think that if the tourists can help keep that alive, then it's a worthwhile venture all around.  

This lady helps lead the way to the market

Now B understands poffertjes and is 

just as excited about them

Alkmaar City Hall

It was SO crowded in the main square where the market takes place.  Like impossible to see, hard to move crowded.  Basically, the cheese bell rings at 10am, at which point all those rounds of cheese in the square are methodically carried up to be weighed.  There are "cheese doctors" that inspect them to make sure they are up to the town's cheese standards.  And eventually they are loaded up on carts and make their journey to market.  It's all silly and the locals participating are just having a grand time throwing grass at each other and shlepping cheese.

The running of the cheese

Cheese maiden

The next day: "I'm never eating old cheese again"

Next Time

Needless to say I didn't get to see the whole of the Netherlands in six weeks.  Here's what's top of my list for next time:

• Leiden
• Mastricht
• Kröller-Müller Museum
• The islands
• Amersfoort