Kelly Carrying On: June 2022

I fit in four day trips from Amsterdam during my six weeks there: Keukenhof, Haarlem, Giethoorn, and Alkmaar. My favorite? Giethoorn. Here's a bit about each!

Keukenhof

I timed my Netherlands trip so that I would miss neither King's Day nor tulip season. Keukenhof, a tulip theme park (think less rides and more photo ops) about 40 minutes outside Amsterdam in Lisse, is a tourist haven but not to be missed. There are thousands upon thousands of different tulip varieties planted in lovely designs and arrangements. And if you get there early enough (I'd say arrive no later than 9:30 - earlier is better!), then it's a peaceful park to stroll through. Come later and you'll feel trapped between hoards of tourists and influencers.

Popular even in April 1976

Mom and Dad at Keukenhof

Walking amongst the flowers was delightful, with unexpected designs and colors and pathways around every corner. And the visitors were all so happy to be there as well - it felt like a big community of flower-loving strangers.

A couple offered to take the above photo for me. They are Norwegian, but the woman studied at Sac State, and the man rowed for Norway in the 1984 LA Olympics. Amazing the connections you can draw with people (I'm talking California, not olympic, connections)!

Back at home in Amsterdam with my antique

Delft vase and vivid red tulips (50 for €7.50!)

Haarlem

Here's what not to do in Haarlem: go on a Monday. I knew it was a risk and that the museums would be closed, but I had been mislead that there was a cool market in the main square to make up for it, which there was not. A cool market at least. So, as it turned out, most everything was closed and I didn't get the full Haarlem day trip experience. I would return perhaps on a Saturday for the real market, or any other day to also visit the Frans Hals Museum. Still, I wandered the canals, discovered a hofje, visited the main church, and enjoyed exploring this smaller version of Amsterdam.

One success I had in Haarlem was entering another hofje: van Bakenes. It's always a little akward, because real people live around these secret courtyards, but it feels like such a special window into a local way of life.

Giethoorn

Brittany visited for ten days towards the end of my time in Amsterdam. The pure highlight of our time together in the Netherlands was our private tour of Giethoorn.

We used Get Your Guide and were swiftly driven the 90 minutes north to this roadless hamlet filled with canals, flora, and whimsy around every bend. We immediately jumped on a boat and began our canal cruise.

Traffic jam!

My favorite anecdote from our guide told about how many of the traditional houses have a canal-facing door with no doorknob. This is because it was town tradition that a husband would carry his wife over the threshold of that door on their wedding day, and then the door would only be used again when one of them died and was carried back out again. Of course, there's more than one door to the house and they'd use that to come and go throughout their lives - don't think they were trapped in there from wedding to dying day, but the symbolism I found touching, if not practical.

Knobless door

You'd think all the homes would be quaint but some were huge!

We spent the entire canal tour emitting high-pitched squeaks in response to the cuteness all around and looking at each other with wide heart eyes each time some newly adorable setting would emerge.

Before embarking on our boat tour, we had appealed to our guide to help us find a restaurant that would be a little more local and interesting than the tourist trap at the dock. He told us not to worry and he would make it happen before we returned. This man lives up to his promises.

While researching Giethoorn weeks prior, I had stumbled upon De Lindenhof, a two-Michelin starred complex that offers not only a restaurant, but also guest houses and gardens and essentially an entire oasis. It certainly piqued my interest, but I couldn't figure out how to even make a reservation (dining appeared to be for guests only), and since I knew transportation would be tricky I just gave up on the whole idea.

But then I found myself magically walking the red carpet toward its doors and emerging into its secret gardens to a warm welcome and a glass of champagne. Our host told us our driver had called to say he had "very special guests." Indeed.

Upon looking at the menu, we could choose between a four- eight- or twelve-course lunch. We split the difference and chose eight - assuming our driver knew what he was getting into when he brought us there. The food amazed: awe-striking presentation, complex flavors and texture combinations - we were in heaven. It was one of those days that you know is just perfect and will be one of the best days of your life and yet you're still present and living in it. We emanated pleasure and gratitude.

The service wasn't stuffy in the least - I truly felt like we were visiting friends. We shared a very generous wine pairing - adorably called a bobarrangement (BOB standing for something along the lines of a designated driver in the NL) - which only heightened our sense of awe.

B+K

For a break before one of many desserts, we strolled about the gardens. The chef has a boat he sometimes takes guests out on, and the oasis is filled with sculptures and inviting seating areas to take in the peaceful surroundings from different angles.

It was idyllic: white puffy clouds reflected off tranquil waterways, birds singing, belly full of delights. And all with my best friend. It was a perfect day.

Alkmaar

For our other day trip, Brittany and I decided to go to Alkmaar, a short train ride away, for their Friday cheese market. The whole thing is a bit of a tourist trap, but they are continuing the traditions of centuries past, and I think that if the tourists can help keep that alive, then it's a worthwhile venture all around.

This lady helps lead the way to the market

Now B understands poffertjes and is

just as excited about them

Alkmaar City Hall

It was SO crowded in the main square where the market takes place. Like impossible to see, hard to move crowded. Basically, the cheese bell rings at 10am, at which point all those rounds of cheese in the square are methodically carried up to be weighed. There are "cheese doctors" that inspect them to make sure they are up to the town's cheese standards. And eventually they are loaded up on carts and make their journey to market. It's all silly and the locals participating are just having a grand time throwing grass at each other and shlepping cheese.