In mid-May I flew to Bologna to meet up with Azzurra (after four years!) for a yoga retreat in Umbria. I got to spend a night in Bologna on either end, which was filled with nostalgia and gelato.
Lemon granita in Piazza Maggiore
Our Airbnb was right at the foot of the Due Torri
Aperitivo in Piazza Santo Stefano
The golden porticos of Bologna
We met up with Francesco and his girlfriend for dinner and then went for my second gelato of the day.
Castiglione! If you know you know.
A big theme of the evening, other than nostalgia, was feeling hella old. Upon arrival, I went to Osteria dell'Orsa, an old university hangout, and realized that the last time I'd eaten there my waitress had been in kindergarten. We walked down Via Zamboni, realized we're now sit-in-bars not drink-in-piazzas people, and confirmed Bombo Crepe is still in business. I found the city to still be incredibly vibrant, artistic, and political. And young.
Pasticceria D'Azeglio for breakfast the next morning
Friday we met up with a couple also headed to the retreat who gave us a lift, Andrea and Michele. I felt so charmed to be in a car full of Italians, driving through the country, on my way to a relaxing weekend of yoga and food and new friends. There were such good people at the retreat, and I thoroughly enjoyed chatting and laughing and sharing life with all of them. The location, Le Torterelle, was exactly what you're likely imagining in your head: a traditional agriturismo, serving local wines on the honor system and homemade pasta in a restored farmhouse, surrounded by hills and olive trees, with a pool and a yoga studio.
Our room was the bottom left
Our room: Forza
Our car buddies!
Inevitably, the second of third question an Italian asks me is always this one: Come mai parli cosi bene l'Italiano?" And it was fun having this question answered by Azzurra instead of me: "Thanks to me!" She said that me speaking Italian is one of the greatest prides/accomplishments of her life. And it's true! I truly owe my fluency to her.
Lucy put together such a thoughtful retreat for us - her first! We practiced yoga in the mornings and evenings for two hours each, focusing on inversions like head- and handstands. Not only was she lovely at building up to the poses and building us up, but she also pushed us to grow and everyone was amazed at some point by their own personal breakthrough. I was sore for almost a week after.
Yoga in Italian was a first for me and presented an added challenge, but I really enjoyed being so immersed. Halfway through the weekend I was already thinking and talking to myself in that language. Goodness how I'd missed it - just speaking isn't enough. Being there brings out the proper Italian discussion topics and an unabashed usage of hand signs.
Azzurra achieving her final pose!
The daytime hours we spent lunching, hiking, or pooling.
After yoga in the evenings, I had one thing on my mind: pasta! Boy, had we earned carbs and wine. Dusk was always the most beautiful time of day, slowly stretching and merging all the colors into one. I could've sat there with a glass of wine forever.
Toastmaster General
Yummmm
The whole gang: Italians from all over the country,
a Russian, and me!
After 48 hours of yoga retreat bliss, and after bidding my new friends and Azzurra arrivederci at the station in Bologna, a profound sadness swept over me. My plans for the evening had fallen through and it was such a let down to come off the community-filled retreat and find myself alone in one of my favorite cities with no plans. Plus all the good restaurants seemed closed! So what does one do when despair creeps in? One goes outside.
And then one feels immensely better.
I happened upon an artisanal market, chatted with some people, and one suggested a great restaurant that was actually open!
Then I discovered the bar at Teatro Arena del Sole
And finally enjoyed two courses of pasta, one being
Tortelloni burro e salvia, at Passatello di Bologna
Oh, Italy, and especially Bologna, you will always own such a large portion of my heart.
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