PIT: Rome

On our way to Sicily, we decided to make a short stop in Rome. We'd already been several times, but we managed to fit in some old and some new into our short 1.5 days there. We stayed at a quaint hotel on the river, across from the castle, with an Italian charmer named Salvo for an owner. But we didn't spend much time there-we had Rome to enjoy!

The first evening we spent exploring Trastevere, a vibrant neighborhood of Rome filled with cobble-stoned streets and bustling restaurants that manages to maintain its local charm. If I were to move to Rome, I think I'd like to live in this neighborhood.

Fitting right in with PDA in Trastevere

Outside the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, famous for its mosaics, and thought to be one of the oldest churches in Rome (which sure is saying something)

Part of a tomb inscription at Santa Maria in Trastevere

The incredible mosaic-ed alter of the church

Dinner!

Quintessential Vespa shot

We entered St. Peter's Basilica not one, not two, but three times

"Throw open the doors to Christ"
Pope John Paul II had just been beatified.

Chatting at the Arch of Constantine

Gladiator pose at the Colosseum

Dad trying to fathom the history of the ancient world

One of our Caravaggio stops, San Luigi dei Francesi, where we saw his cycle on the life of St. Matthew. On the left, the Calling of St. Matthew, and on the right the Inspiration of St. Matthew. Now shown in this photo is the Martyrdom of St. Matthew. It's an incredible thing to see such momentous paintings in their original location rather than in a museum.

Mom admiring the flowers at Campo dei Fiori

While dining near Piazza Navona on our last night, we ended up next to a rambunctious group of Italians that insisted on sharing their food and conversing with us. The guy in the white shirt was particularly raucous, and would drunkenly stand up and loudly orate incomprehensible nonsense for long lengths of time. His friends confessed that he's not a very good husband, and mom said, "I can tell!" It was great, if not bizarre, fun.

[I must add that Letizia just informed me that the guy on the right, dodging out of the photo, is apparently a famous Italian actor and writer, named Fabio Volo-who knew! I sat by him all night!]

One felt like apologizing to dad for all the commotion, so on his way out, he did a drive-by dance number in his Mercedes to "deep house" music, just for dad:

After dinner we strolled by all the top nighttime spots, including the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, and the Trevi Fountain.

Pantheon, above, and Trevi fountain, below

Next stop...Sicily!

Parent's Italy Trip (PIT): Florence

Just arrived!

Since there are no students at the villa for most of May, I have the time off! My parents and I seized the opportunity (unfortunately Daniel couldn't come because he had school), and spent two weeks both traveling around Italy and enjoying Florence while staying in Georgetown's Fiesole apartment. The apartment has an amazing location in the main piazza of Fiesole, right above a bar, a restaurant, and the bus stop. It's also afforded great views, with the city on one side and Piazza Mino on the other. Despite all of our wonderful travels, some of our favorite moments throughout the whole trip were spent in this apartment, cooking at home, or drinking tea and playing cards. Here's a couple shots of "home":

Kitchen

Living Room

View of the main piazza (Mino) out the front window

Accordion shower

I know what you're thinking: that's a shower? Well, sort of. One thing's for sure-whatever it is, it sure created a lot of jocularity as each of us had our own adventures in flooding, soap slipping, and accidental butt-bumping of the doors. I think one morning, while showering, my dad laughed so hard he cried.

The first couple days in Florence we spent seeing the Accademia and Uffizi museums, shopping, and of course dining. One evening my director, Alan, invited us to dinner at his country house in Fiesole. And perhaps most importantly, my parents finally got to see the Villa!

View off the Ponte Vecchio

Dinner at 4 Leoni

Excited to see the villa!

Next stop...Rome!

What's the Crack?

Two weeks ago Gio and I flew to Dublin to stay with our friend Carlotta (yes, the same girl I visited in Rome last summer and Provence last fall-she's always giving us new travel destinations!), who is working on the second semester of her master's degree in Ireland. We were able to fit a lot in to our four days together, including a visit to see the illuminated manuscripts in the Book of Kells at Trinity College (above).

The River Liffey at dusk

Our first day Gio and I went on an organized trip to the Cliffs of Moher, where we got to see the Burren with a beautiful oceanic backdrop, Bunratty Castle (for all of 25 minutes), and the Cliffs complete with a harpist, a castle, stunning views, and a disconcerting quantity of pesty winged insects.

Burren

We may have gone beyond the "do not cross" signs.

Just a little ol' Irish green.

I like to imagine that this rock face is frowning
at all the people who blew off the cliffs.

One of my absolute favorite stops on our Dublin walks was St. Stephen's Green, where one can peacefully meander amidst babies in strollers, ducks vying for breadcrumbs, and abundant greenery far and wide. In Italy trees and greenery-let alone community parks-are hard to come by, since most gardens are hidden behind the massive doors of palazzi and people are more inclined to congregate in a piazza where wine and espresso are within immediate reach. Thus, you can imagine my pleasure at wandering through and taking a precious moment to appreciate this lush landscape.


We spent one day doing the obligatory round of churches, including St. Patrick's Cathedral and Christ Church. It was refreshing to see different styles of architecture and design from those of Italy. However, hearing that St. Patrick's Cathedral is the largest church in all of Ireland made Gio and I, well-versed in Italian churches and having visited St. Peter's in Rome several times, laugh because we thought it to be so small! We learned that when St. Patrick came to Ireland to spread Catholicism, he used the Irish shamrock to explain to its people the idea of the holy trinity. Way to know your audience, I'd say. Here's a picture of the choir in St. Patrick's, boasting the flags of the Most Illustrious Order of St. Patrick.

We had a couple really fun nights out, including one at a house party with some of Carlotta's new friends from University (where I won a dance off with a 40-year-old Dutchman dressed like Tony the Tiger), and one at the Auld Dubliner in Temple Bar where we boogied down for hours with predominantly English people and feisty cougars.

Auld Dubliner

And what would Ireland be without some local food and a pint of Guinness (or three)? We sampled a few delicacies, including a full Irish breakfast and traditional Guinness lamb stew (with mashed potatoes on top-simply brilliant!).

Gio and I couldn't resist a tour of the Guinness factory, despite the fact that we both despised the stuff prior to our visit. It's true what they say, however, Guinness really is better in Ireland! We grew to appreciate the strong taste and the frothy foam, not to mention the success of the label. The design of the factory was fascinating, appealing to all the senses, and we even learned to pour our own perfect pint.

Waterfall inside the factory

One last pint at the airport before flying home!

I realized I have yet to explain the title of this post. In Ireland, instead of saying, "What's up?" it's customary to ask, "What's the crack?" Despite its seemingly illicit insinuations, it originates from the Irish craic, meaning news or gossip. It can also be used instead of "cool" or something similar, as in "That's good crack." Try using that next time you see a friend; you'll get hilarious looks and sound extremely well-traveled. Or like a crack-head.

Fate? I Think So...

Now I know what you're all thinking-that's not THE Rick Steves, is it?? Oh, but it is! My dorky travel tendencies were in full swing Easter Sunday when an old American lady in the crowd pointed him out. After the celebrations, I told Maureen and her family that we absolutely had to find him and get a picture with him. Maureen's dad (who is also a HUGE Rick Steves fan-he even has a RS backpack and money belt) said, "If I know Rick Steves, he'll be by the back door, like his books say," and sure enough, when we went around to the back entrance of the Duomo, there he was!!

I introduced myself, shook his hand, and was super original in saying, "I'm such a big fan!" We had common ground to talk about because his daughter is a junior at Georgetown (I knew her name and everything, I'm such a stalker) and in fact many of my students are friends with her. When he found out I worked for the Georgetown program he asked me for my card (!), to pass on to his son, who started a new weekend travel company for study abroad students (which I already knew about). So I gave Rick Steves my contact info (which he has in his pocket) and told him to have his son contact me. Does this sound like fate to anyone else? This means one of two things: 1) I should be working for my travel hero, Rick Steves, or 2) I should be marrying his son. At least I have options!

Meanwhile, Easter in Florence is quite the production. Before the mass, there is the "Burst of the Carriage" in the main piazza, which begins with oxen carrying in a giant carriage that will later be lit with fireworks. It is a fusion of Christian and Pagan traditions that dates back to the first crusades. Maureen and I kept wiggling toward the front for a good view of all the costumes, white oxen, flag throwing, religious ceremonies, and fireworks. It was such an exciting experience to participate in this extremely important tradition for Florence.

Traditional costumes

The oxen carrying in the carriage

Blessing of the ceremony and the crowd

We thought we were being gassed,
but it was just part of the show

The fireworks rounded the bottom of the carriage
and worked their way up to the top

Sometimes it sounded like gunfire

And we kept yelping and ducking in terror

Easter mass inside the Duomo

Easter Sunday lunch with Maureen and her family,
as well as Hope (another student) and her sister

Piazzale Michelangelo