Sunday, June 2, 2019

Nepal: Visiting the Women's Center


Our visit to Nasreen's Local Women's Handicrafts center, several miles outside of the capital, was the day to which we had all been most looking forward.  This is where the magic happens, where the women come to their fair trade jobs in a safe and supportive community entirely run by women to create bracelets, rugs, scarves, you name it.  They all have specific jobs, including quality control, and there's a management structure so the women have a leadership trajectory.  All of their goods then funnel to the central shopping district where they have more women running the shop, and to the online store.  If you're ever in Nepal, schedule a tour of the center, and definitely don't miss the shop in Thamel!

A preview of our welcome, on the path 
before even arriving at the center

The women all put so much time into preparing for our visit.  They'd made us flower necklaces and spent all morning cooking a feast for 60.  After an incredibly warm welcome, they all scurried off to their stations to prepare for our tour of the facility so we could see them in action.

Welcome party


Laughing it up with Saheen

Nasreen touring us around the sewing room

Learning about their priceless patterns

They're so proud of their work, and rightly so!

Some of the most touching moments came when Nasreen would speak of her pride in her younger sister.  Saheen, like Nasreen, was forced into sweat shop labor at a young age.  Tears well in both their eyes to think of all they've endured, and it's obvious that Nasreen's sister is a huge motivation in her creating opportunities for women.

Saheen's embroidering skills

One of the causes the women are working on is destigmatizing menstruation.  In many parts of Nepal, menstruating women and girls are considered impure and are banished to huts separate from their families while on their cycle.  Several women die from this each year, and while it is illegal, the tradition is still observed in many parts of the country.  For more, check out this story in the New York Times.  

In America, we just complain that our period landed on the weekend we're going to be at the lake, or how our cramps should afford us one day of sick leave per month.  I cannot imagine the institutional shame, embarrassment, and loneliness women in Nepal endure as their social price for the capacity to beget children.

To combat this, the women at the center sew reusable pads and have created an educational comic book on the topic.  They coordinate with local schools that will let them speak to boys and girls about what menstruation really means, and supply the girls with the pads and books.  While not every principal is welcoming, each child they can get their message in front of is one more break in the chain.  It all starts with teaching the children.

Amazed to actually be here

Back at the center, we toured a separate building that houses their larger equipment, and got to see the personalities really emerge!


Recycled saris being woven into rugs and other items

So filled with vibrancy and joy!

Something that really struck me was the ebullience of these women.  Nasreen doesn't take just anyone under her wing; these are women that have experienced severe adversity and exhibit promise.  Seeing them together in the community Nasreen has built, part of me envied the connection, the way they lift each other up in work and in life, encouraging, laughing, singing.  It was truly beautiful to see the threads of empowerment being woven.  

The loom in action

After the tour, we made our way up to the rooftop for Paloma, the Mexican sha(wo)man's workshop on female healing.  She had created an altar with special items like Mexican herbs, flower petals, and various rocks and crystals.  She asked for three women who were experiencing a particularly hard time to come forward.  When Nasreen translated, one woman started crying immediately.  It wasn't hard to find two more in need of a little extra love.  

These women have been through more than many of us can imagine.  Some used to work in terrible slave-like conditions.  Others lost everything in the 2015 earthquake (insurance doesn't exist in Nepal).  Many have struggled to provide for their families under a strictly patriarchal society where women are subjugated by husbands in forced underage marriages.

Let's just say some healing was in order.

Paloma kicking off the women's workshop


She had the three women lay on rugs around the altar, surrounded by our wider circle of at least 50 more people.  The ceremony was interactive, intermingling Spanish, English, and Nepali: I found the heartfelt words in her native Spanish the most impactful.  She opened by having us stand as she called out prayers to the gods of the north, south, east, and west, us repeating her words and rotating to face each god's direction before finally dropping to the ground and throwing handfuls of rice into the air.  She brought us back to seated, and encouraged us to close our eyes.  

It was so beautiful to sit there surrounded by so many diverse, beautiful women, holding space for everyone while Paloma beat her drum and built the energy.  Soon, tears started streaming down my face.  I felt so impacted by the energy of the group that my body was literally vibrating.  She invited us each, in our own time, to rise, take a handful of earthly riches from the altar, and sprinkle them with blessings for healing upon the three women.

Gathering rice, herbs, and floral petals

Blessing the women with our offerings

Amanda noticed I was crying, and put flowers on me as a show of love.  More tears spilled, tears of empathy and humility and gratitude and healing and power.  I was immeasurably moved by the heaviness of everyone's pasts being buoyed by the positive, loving energy swirling amidst us.


Soon, we were coming full circle with our songs and prayers to the gods, and it was like we were snapped out of a spell or a dream; I hadn't wanted that feeling of connectedness and higher meaning to end.

But it was lunchtime, and gods know I was down for that.

Our giant, home-cooked Nepali feast!

After our delicious lunch, we tried our hands at craft time.  I think I could probably make one bracelet of questionable quality for every dozen perfect bracelets of theirs!

Learning the weave

We never quite got the hang of it, despite their patience!

As the next day was the big Holi celebration, the ladies organized a mini color festival of love for us on the rooftop.  It was a great way to find the troublemakers, who would come after you with powder, and the includers, who would bring you into their dance circles and make you feel welcome.


Dancing at the Holi celebration

Not even everyone!

It was such a long day filled with positive energy and girlpower.  Meeting the women that I'd been evangelizing for months, and whose wares I had been selling, brought me full circle and made me feel an intense sense of gratitude.

On a total high on the ride back

Nasreen's vision goes so far beyond this center and this one shop.  She wants to bring awareness to fair trade.  To get people out of sweat shops, and into livable wages under beneficial conditions.  To remove the stigma around menstruation.  To give options to women who are held back by antiquated, patriarchal societal norms.  To educate; to empower.  And she takes on the cause with both a fierceness and a supreme humility of spirit.  

Nasreen's just getting started.

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